Acclaim

Friday, December 10, 2004
By S.J. Gintzler
Star Ledger

"La Griglia, a contemporary Italian grill in Kenilworth, serves a savory selection of seafood, chicken, veal, steaks and chops against a sophisticated backdrop."

"Ambience: Valet parking is offered alongside the tidy brick building that houses La Griglia. The interior is stylish and relaxed, with an eat-in barroom and main dining room hung with colorful prints. Candle-lit tables and recessed lighting add a romantic touch. An additional dining area is in the rear. Upper level dining rooms are available for busy weekends."

"Staff: Organized and efficient. We were promptly seated for an 8 p.m. Saturday night reservation despite the throngs awaiting tables at the bar."

"Choosing a bottle of wine is an event here, given the 600 options ($20-$1,200) listed in a binder-style menu. We ordered Il Palazzino "La Casina Girasole," a bright, fruity chianti ($27; also offered by the quartino, a small carafe, $7). A basket of assorted hot rolls was served, followed by appealing starters. Chilled, cracked Florida stone crab claws ($14, a special), sweet and meaty, were given extra oomph by a zesty dijon mustard dipping sauce. Garlic shrimp ($9) reminded us of the similarly pungent dish served at Newark's Iberian eateries. We've never had a better pasta e fagioli ($4.50). It was a stew brimming with ditalini and assorted beans moistened just so by a flavorful broth."

"Two fish dishes triumphed. A Cajun-dusted, grilled medium-rare yellowfin tuna ($21) was toothsome draped over grilled eggplant, zucchini and portobello mushrooms in a roasted garlic/tomato/balsamic vinaigrette. A richly flavored fillet of red snapper ($21) coated in a crispy potato crust and served over spinach partnered nicely with a smooth chardonnay beurre blanc ($15.50). Grilled chicken fillets topped with grilled shrimp were sweet and savory."

"House-made desserts ($8) were excellent - a four-star crème brlée, apple crumb cake with kitchen- made caramel gelato and a soft chocolate chip cookie sandwich filled with vanilla gelato and topped with whipped cream."

"In every way, dinner at La Griglia provided a top-notch, grown-up evening out."  

 Food: 1/2
Ambience:  1/2
Service: 
Overall: 1/2 

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